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July 15, 2006
Marseille, Bastille Day, Aix-en-Provence and Belsunce Quarter
Marseille
Marseille is different, that's what everyone said. Some love it some hate it. Skip Marseille, or 1 day is enough some said while some vouch on Marseille's vibrant atmosphere. Marseille is indeed different, like Lonely Planet said it hasn't been prettified for the benefit of tourist.
I arrived in Marseille on the 13/7 afternoon, having been in France for over a week I no longer overwhelmed by the mass of people at the train station or trying to locate my hotel. I quickly read the metro map and navigate myself to the hotel. Yes because the hostel was fully booked in Marseille I had no choice but to stay in a budget hotel in the centre of Marseille. This is probably a better option since I met a few people who had stated in Marseille HI Hostel and they said that it's a bit far from the centre. I spent the day exploring the city, or actually the Vieux Port region. Feeling tired I went back to the hostel and the comfort of the air-con.
The next day of course is Bastille Day, which I unceremoniously overslept and missed the parade at Vieux Port. All the shops and museums were closed, which turned out to be a blessing since I really need to save money. I did the killer climb to the Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde basilica which provides a superb view over the city. This probably the best city lookout that I've visited so far. I continued to explore the Viex Port area and while Chateu d'IF is open today the cost (EUR10 ferry + EUR5) entry fee seems to be a bit excessive. I've been in a few chateu and this one at least I've seen it from the distance. Needing to put a brake on my spending I decided to pass the chateu.
Bastille Day Firework
Later that night I went out to see the firework at Vieux Port. Although there were a lot of people there, it certainly not as packed as I expected. Maybe I'm used to the number of crowd in Sydney. Greater Marseille is the third largest metropolitan in France (after Paris and Lyon) with 1.5 million people (a tad smaller than Brisbane with 1.8 million) while Marseille city itself only has around 850,000 people.
The main firework went for almost 30 minutes, it was certainly impressive and I was reminded how much I used to love firework and playing with those little firework. Since firework was banned in Australia, I haven't played with firework for ages. Last night I was reminded all the variety of fireworks that I used to play when I was a kid.
Aix-en-Provence
This morning I had a few options, keep exploring Marseille and hit the museum, visit the Calanques, visit Marseille swimming beaches or do a day trip to Aix-en-ProvenceM. I chose Aix-en-Provence and I'm glad I did it. Aix-en-Provence is a pretty and a very pedestrian friendly university town. I was lucky that since today is Saturday all the markets in Aix-en-Provence are open, from the fresh produce, spice, flower and even the flea market. According to Lonely Planet, Aix-en-Provence has the best market in Provence. With the markets open, Aix become one of the best city to just wander around, which I did for a long time. I wished I had stayed here for a couple of days.
A good way to explore Aix is to get a copy of Cezanne Steps and follow the guide to see the important building related to Aix most celebrated son. Although following the guide was a bit confusing, and the trail marker dissapear every now and then, I managed to see most of the important houses in the trail including the house where Cezanne was born, where he died, his art school etc.
There are two superb English language bookshops in Aix, not a surprise because of her high overseas student population. I sold my second hand copy of The Firm for EUR1.50 (arggh) and bought a new copy of The Da Vinci Code.
Belsunce Quarter
Back in Marseille by the train, I went to explore the Belsunce Quarter which is just next the train station. This is the area where Lonely Planet says to avoid walking alone at night. Belsunce is really interesting and certainly not dangerous. I never felt threatened and just conveniently strolled amongs its crazy markets. Coming from beautiful, clean and spotless Aix, I felt like I've been transported to a different dimension, a different France. Goods are overflowing to the streets, people are walking shoulder to shoulder and French is a minority language in this quarter. It was amazing and I love it.
Tomorrow I will say goodbye to Provence to visit Nimes in Languedoc-Roussillon.
Posted by vhadiant at July 15, 2006 07:23 PM
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