August 11, 2006
Granada
Lag
I'm lagging behind again. I haven't found a good time to blog in the past few days.
On the Way to Granada
After surviving Valencia's bus station, I think I got the hang of travelling by bus in Spain. It's very easy and there are frequent bus service between the major lines. The only problem is that there are many bus companies each servicing different area of Spain. It was a 5 hours bus trip from Madrid to Granada. At EUR14 it was one of the cheapest travel cost so far. I met a few Americans exchange students here in Granada who were training it from Madrid. It sucks, bus is cheaper and quicker. Unlike France where train is the way to go, in Spain make sure to compare both options.
In Granada
I like Spain, but not until I arrive in Granada I fell in love with Spain. While Barcelona, Valencia and Madrid are nice, they don't really have the charm of Granada (and the rest of Andalucia I'm hoping). A friend said that she hasn't really felt that she was in Spain until she was here in Granada.
There are more in Granada than just Alhambra. The narrow alleys of Albayzin quarter, the royal chappel to house the crypt of Fernando and Isabel, the muslim bath house, the flea market, the tapas bar, the vibrant nightlife, and of course cool hostels :) I love Granada, it feels like the heart of Spain but fun for tourist too.
The First Day
The temperature reading on the road showed 42 celcius. Granada is hot, especially during July and August where many residetns sensibly leave Granada for the coast. Funky Backpacker Hostel is centrally located near Plaza Nueva where the buses to Alhambra call their passangers.
I met a three friendly American exchange students from Valladolid on their weekend trip to see Alhambra. That night the hostel offered Paella on the Roof (seems to be quiet common in Spain) for a mere EUR6. It was a bloody good paella but not enough for my liking.
After the paella night the three American students told me that they are going to see a free Flamenco show and asked me if I want to come a long. Although a bit wary of the "free" element I went along since the Flamenco night offered at the hostel cost EUR18 (a single drink included).
The restaurant was very nice, smoky, friendly and had this really authentic atmosphere. Too add the Spanish authenticity, the show didn't start until over 1 hour later than the advertised time. It was a simple Flamenco show with a single guitarist, singer and a dancer. The stage was small and some of us sit dangerously closed to the dancer. Although I didn't think much of the singing the dancing was quiet good, but it was the guitar that got me.
The Next Day
It was still hot. In the morning I paid Fernando and Isable a visit in the Capilla Real but refused to pay the equivalent amount (EUR3) for the cathedral.
Later on the day I did my walking tour in charming Albayzin (the old muslim quarter). Although the muslim rule ended centuries ago, this quarter retains its muslim characteristics. Situated in a hill the Albayzin can be quiet tiring to explore, especially in the searing 40 degree plus. Unfortunately this was Sunday. Many sights are closed for the day.
Went back to the hostel to cook lunch and to escape the heat.
Gatecrashing another Hostel
Not that Funky is not a good hostel, it is in fact very nice. It's cleaned, has air-con, but it isn't a very social hostel. It has a common room, but like the common room in my previous hostel in Madrid it doesn't encourage social interaction. I haven't figured out yet exaclty what make one common room more sociable than others, but I have a feeling it's the location of the common room and the furniture.
An aussie girl I met earlier in Valencia told me she will be in Granada staying at Oasis. We've been emailing to organise a catch up. So I went down to Oasis, ring the the bell, walked straight into the nicely decorated lounge room and there she was. Good timing and she just literally arrived in the hostel.
Unlike Funky, the common room in Oasis is brightly decorated, next to the kichen, bar and simply nice. I rate this hostel just as good as Home Youth Hostel in Valencia. Another aussie girl joined us and an english girl who has been studying Spanish for over a month in Granada became our guide for the best restaurant and tapas bar for the night.
La Alhambra
In the past two months I've seen many amazing things, Angkor Wat still top my WOW list. I visited Angkor Wat in the beginning of the trip and nothing has even remotely close on that until La Alhambra. I'm convinced that if you only have 1 day in Spain, this is where you have to go.
I reserved my ticket over the Internet as suggested by Lonely Planet and my hostel. I still had to come early to pick it up as they have queue for the reservation line, albeit moving a lot quicker than the on the day ticket sales queue. With 9:30 Palacio Nazaries entrance timeI still managed to grab a quick breakfast in the hostel at 8 in the morning, catch the bus to Alhambra (stuff walking) queue and get into Alhambra by 9 in the morning. This gave me half an hour time to walk around before entering Palacio Nazaries.
Palacio Nazaries, the jewel of Alhambra, is nothing like I've ever seen before. Although it's not in a very good state it is still breathtaking. I could only imagine how it looked on its height. No amount of photos of the palace from the postcards can prepare me of what is truly the gem of Spain architecture. I'm rambling again here, anyway in short I'm impressed.
The Teteria
I gatecrashed Oasis hostel again. This night there were 9 people, all from Sydney, in the lounge room. Typical Sydneysiders, we could not escape the real estate discussion. I joined the fairly cheap vegetarian dinner party at the hostel and we went out to the teteria to sample the Moroccon tea and their sweet tobacco on that really ornate bong (can't spell it and don't have time to look up for it. People are queueing for the free internet here).
So that was Granada, it was a superb experience. I love Granada and from talking to a lots of people they all seem to love Granada. It's one of kind city.
Posted by vhadiant at August 11, 2006 09:00 PM
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